Prague Days Two and a Half

The next morning (Saturday), we had a fantastic hotel breakfast, then went on a tour of central Prague on a tourist rubber-tired trolley.  It was actually a helpful orientation to the area. We spent most of the rest of the daylight hours walking around.  But not by ourselves!

We were surrounded for the most part by massive and densely-packed crowds of tourists. Charles Bridge, Old Town Square, the National Theatre.  One can barely make oneself a way forward in the historic center of town.  One principal attraction, of course, is the extraordinary beauty and historic significance of the architecture and engineering. A beauty that also attracts famous people which in turn attracts more ogle-eyed tourists. 

But to tolerate the touristic “inauthenticity” of the place, I began to view the entire central part of town as itself a museum. The very presence of tourist hordes a part of the learning one takes in at a fine museum.  And in that, there was a phenomenal diversity of people. Clearly from all continents.

One tourist-themed draw: concert venues for classical music. These were primarily housed in grand churches. I suppose that it was one means of providing financial support for these gigantic romantic and gothic icons to the church’s historic majesty.   I counted at least five venues, each providing daily/nightly performances of Bach, Handel, Vivaldi and Mozart. Jean and I attended one on Saturday night.  The place was packed.  The performance was solid, but not spectacular, and the seating (pews or folding chairs), uncomfortable. But again, with the museum analogy, where else do classical music concerts take place daily for tourists?

After the concert we went for a nightcap of a small bite with drinks in the restaurant adjacent to our hotel. Our waiter advised us gracefully with wine and beer selections. Jean asked him, “How old are you? You look 16.”  Turns out he was 17. I then asked him, “Are you in school, or have you graduated?” 

He said he only went to elementary school.  He then told us that when the Ukraine-Russia war started, masses of Ukrainian students came into his school. He said he didn’t want to be seen as “racist” but that the Ukrainians were horrible. Not just ungrateful, but also derisive to the Czechs. “So,” he proclaimed, “I’ll get my certification, but I’ll never return to High School.”

At the same restaurant from the evening before – the hotel provides a great buffet breakfast – we chatted with an Ethiopian lady who was tasked with removing our dirty plates between trips back to the buffet.  She was so so sweet, with an endearing and gentle smile.

We then went for a tour of the Jewish Museum, which included multiple venues.

Our tour guide was a middle-aged Czech Jewess.  As a young woman she had toured the world. I asked her why she came back to live in Prague as there were so few Jews in the country. She said she was the only daughter of her parents and they needed care.  She had been a tour guide at the Jewish Museum for 15 plus years.

The tour itself touched on a half dozen Jewish sites in a small neighborhood.  Old synagogues. Cemeteries. Museums.  Even restaurants.  We ended up eating an absolutely delicious Ashkenazi lunch at a café which featured a front window display of famous folks who had dined there.  If it was good enough for Michelle Obama, it was good enough for us!

Now THAT’S gefilte fish!

That afternoon, after a well-deserved nap, we hopped on a tram just to see where it might take us.  Public transit is free for folks over 65 in Prague. That’s all the transit, including its subway system.  As luck would have it, our tram took us to Prague castle, a massive complex that housed Czech royalty for many centuries. 

Prague Castle and surroundings

For dinner, it was back to Old Town Square for a gigantic latke and afterward ended with a nightcap of wine and beer and the same 17-year-old waiter we saw the night before.  He was having a bad day and let us know it.

Now THAT’S a big latke!

The next and last morning in Prague, we ate a quick breakfast, and were driven to the airport by the same marginally disaffected taxi driver we had on the way in.

The last experience we had, prior to Poland, was a fabulous flight because we were in business class. Normally, I am adverse to luxury, but have given in to our senior status once in a while which makes the extras all the more appreciated.

The first, short leg of our journey together was now over. Next, comes the heart of our motivation for coming to Central and Eastern Europe. Family history for Jean in Poland. Family history for me in Lithuania. And the crucible of mid-20th Century evil, including Nazi death camps and other Axis horrors.

Olympia to Day #1 in Prague

This is the first of several blog entries that tell some tales of the trip that Jean and I are on in a European June fortnight.

Crossing a continent and an ocean by air, with local grounded transport added in, is an exhausting 15-hour experience. A bit tougher for two 70-year-olds than in years past.

A few initial moments of Connections in transit

My Forest Gump-like interactions with seatmates continued.  From SeaTac to Paris, I sat next to Amanda Achen who turns out to be an extraordinarily popular singer. She has performed in an event before 30 thousand people and specializes in singing for a popular video game called Final Fantasy. She said it has 26 million players. Here is an example of her in concert:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fgB3M2y4wY

For a young “Hollywood” type, she said that she longed to move to Mexico City where housing was more affordable than LA and she could improve her Spanish language skills.

Next, on the flight from Paris to Prague, a young woman sat beside me.  We talked about our favorite books.  She was interested in love and referenced a book that talked about the non-sexual love between an older woman and a male child.  It got me to remembering – eventually – Harold and Maude. She will try to see it. Perhaps I will too.

Jean and I enjoyed the Ibis at the Paris airport. Our first of several wonderful breakfast buffets. The evening buffet too was excellent, and I was already failing to limit my calorie intake!

Prague

The Prague airport is modern and beautiful. We were greeted by a taxi driver holding large lettered sign with the name “Daniel Farber” prominently displayed.  He turned out to be a diffident kind of guy.  A pretty unhappy character who didn’t really want to keep driving a taxi. He was an employee of the hotel (or set of hotels) for at least part of his work. He asked where we were from and then referenced his knowledge of the Seattle Supersonics.  Seemed to know American sports a bit but also expressed cynical views.

Driving into the outskirts of Prague, Eastern Bloc communist apartment architecture dominates.  There is some effort to paint the exterior walls freshly, and we are told that the vast majority of the apartments’ interiors have been renovated. I find out later in Lithuania that they call those places Khruschevas – after the former Soviet leader who succeeded Stalin.

From its outskirts, the famously beautiful city of Prague looked anything but. The ugly, boxy apartments. A winding, poorly maintained street grid with inadequate sidewalks. Disordered land use, which didn’t appear to provide services to residents.  And a seemingly poor public transit system (we later saw that public transit was really super in the more central part of town).

But then we come, after about 20 minutes of driving, to see the town’s historic center, and it is an architectural masterpiece.  Known as the city of 100 spires, Prague’s provides a 700+ year continuum of spectacular and cohesive beauty.

Old Town Square Prague

The location of our small hotel is smack dab in the middle of the busiest tourist part of town.  Three blocks from the 650-year-old Charles Bridge – where kissing one’s sweetie is a joy and an obligation – strolling from our hotel finds one with grand, opulent edifices in every direction. And there were tourists. Also, in every direction. Tens of thousands of them. Probably hundreds of thousands within a mile’s radius.

We had come to Prague with some advice from friends as to what we should do and see.  But otherwise, we had no agenda. Reaching the hotel reception area, a couple hours before we could check in, I said to the receptionist, “assume we know nothing of Prague. In the next two hours what would you recommend we see?”

He provided us a map – way too small for my aged eyes – pointed to a few classic tourist haunts, and we took off by foot.  Also famous about Prague – the confusing warren of streets.  After some help from Jean in knowing how to return, we made it back from a quick orientation jaunt to the Jewish Quarter. After stowing our luggage in our room, we spent the remainder of the day exploring central Prague and eating our way through various encounters with meat.

In the evening, I attended Erev Shabbat services. The 300+ year old building where it was held, was located in the Jewish Quarter. There remain 6 synagogue buildings in the area, though only two are still functioning for that purpose and only this one allows non-members to drop in for shabbat.

The services were performed by the same congregation that also holds Shabbat day services in the Old New Synagogue. That older building began construction in 1270. It claims to be the oldest extant synagogue building in Europe.

Prague’s Old New Synagogue

What an extraordinary shul experience for me and what an ordinary infusion of practiced exultation for most of the rest of the participants.  INTENSE. 100 people crowded into a small square space, with anteroom added for extra women – though in the “box” were women also to one side. The walls of the sanctuary, along with other locations in the building, were plastered with Hebrew sayings and strewn with flags of the state of Israel.

The prayers were chanted and sung with great vigor, speed, and a mixture of routine and pure joy!  I sat next to an elderly Czech with a long, white beard.  We chatted briefly before services began and a bit afterward. Another beardless man said to my neighbor, “you win for the best beard in the place.”  My neighbor smiled.

Most everyone read from a purely Hebrew siddur.  While the Hebrew sped by – and over my head – I read a piece by Sir Jonathan Sacks who had provided an overview of the role of prayer in the English-Hebrew siddur I had in my hand.  About 15% of the time, however, I WAS able to follow along with the music and much of the lyrics to the prayers.  It was all, essentially, familiar. A universality – especially Ashkenazic – of Jewishness. I probably followed along the least of anyone in the room, including the women, but every man I was close to greeted me and vice versa with a genuine “Shabbat Shalom”, and at the end of the service, an energetic “Gut Shabbos. “ 

A word about safety and security in a Central European Jewish institution.

At the entry to the shul, out on the sidewalk in front of the synagogue door, an unarmed man asked everyone who wanted to enter a few questions. 

“Shabbat Shalom,” I said to him.

“I need to ask you a few questions if you don’t mind,” was his reply.

“Sure.” 

“Where are you from?” he asked me.

“I’m from America. I’m Jewish and would like to attend services.”

“Can I see your passport?” he replied. 

“Sure” I said and handed it to him. 

“How often do you go to shabbat services,” he asked. 

“Almost every week” I replied. “I’m President of my shul.” 

“What is its name” he asked. 

I replied correctly, and then he asked me, “What is a parsha?” 

“It is the weekly portion of the Torah,” I replied. 

He then shook my hand, we exchanged “shabbat shaloms,” and he let me in.  Inside the front door, there was a man in a control booth who needed to buzz me into the main foyer. Overall, it was a two-step security program similar to my shul, but of course, we aren’t asking about passports and quizzing folks about Jewish knowledge.

My Prague shul attendance happened on the same day that the FBI and Thurston County Sheriff’s office raided a home in Lacey, Washington, a few miles from my home. There they found a massive accumulation of weaponry, Nazi symbols and messages of antisemitic hate strewn about.  They arrested the men inside. But the juxtaposition of increasing antisemitic attacks back home, with our upcoming journey into the Central and Eastern European killing fields for a foreshadowing I wish we didn’t face.

After shabbat services, I returned to a sleeping Jean and fell into a fast jet-lagged sleep.  Our first day in Prague was done.

And away we go…

It somehow feels today like a slow-motion whirlwind.  An unknowable anxiety.  A misplaced redundancy. Or, perhaps, I’m just a bit apprehensive and reasonably so.

Typing from outside the departures gate at SeaTac, the next flight will take me to my lovely wife waiting for me at Paris’s De Gaulle airport. That’s not the apprehensive part. It comes a bit later, as we journey together to Prague, then Poland, then Lithuania, then Normandy before coming home.

It is a voyage very much centered on heritage of several sorts.  Deeply tragic Jewish heritage in the land of the mid- 20th century antisemitic killing fields. Sweet family heritage visiting the youthful homes of Jean’s grandparents – and maybe even her great grandparent. Military heritage, of a time when the USA was on the courageous side in the fight against fascism.

The details, of course, will matter. The immediacy of the experiences, the presence amidst true site-based artifacts, bring a power that travel can provide.

Yet the state of the world… the sense of increasing danger to civilization itself due to wretched leadership and poor decisions by electorates (regardless of their overseers’ success at misinformation and digression) … leaves me wary of this trip unlike I have ever been wary before. 

Somehow, I felt safer on my Israeli trips, our Mexican trips, our South African trips; all places where violence is a more pronounced part of their image and their reality.  Perhaps it is all the Ukrainians I keep meeting (was checked in by one today). Perhaps it is the increasing antisemitic actions happening in our country and around the world, that I feel especially vulnerable as a Jew visiting Jewish heritage sites.

Nah… that last one’s not a perhaps. That is a big part of it.

But… away we go anyway.  On to another adventure.

On Rabbis: Real and Imagined

At Monday morning’s YMCA Senior Fitness class, Beth Daniel, a fitness instructor at the Y for over 30 years, asked her elderly students a fun question.  Beth, an extraordinary leader, combines rigor, consistency and genuine care for people.  She takes the time to remember names, tell stories, share her experiences and ask others to share theirs. Yet somehow, after one hour of cardio, strength and flexibility training, she still manages to both promote health and keep you coming back for more.

Oh yeah… back to her fun question.

Midway through our regimen, she says she went up over the weekend to Whidbey Island and took in the local theatrical performance of “Fiddler on the Roof.” She was deeply moved by the play and told of a friend sobbing at the end when the song Anatevka was sung.  Then Beth asked whether anyone in the group (there were about 25 of us) had been in a play.  A couple of people told of their roles… and then we moved on.

After the class was done, I went up to Beth and thanked her for bringing up “Fiddler” and told her that I had played the Rabbi in our high school “Fiddler” production.  I have always thought that I got the role not because I could sing, dance or act, but because as one of the only Jews in my school, they kinda had to give it to me.

Beth had earlier asked people if they remembered any of their lines, and that set me back to my character’s only line, which was a response to a question from the rabbi’s son: “Is there a proper blessing for the Czar?”

“A blessing for the Czar?  Of course…  may God bless and keep the Czar… far away from us!”

Great art is always relevant to the moment, and is that ever relevant now!

In “Fiddler,” the Rabbi was both a peripheral and a comic figure. Yet, I felt a certain obligation to do the role correctly.  So, in preparation for the marriage scene, I contacted the rabbi who led me through my bar mitzvah ritual, Dr. Arthur Lagaweir.

Dr. Lagaweir was a fascinating and impressive man. Born a Dutch Jew in Amsterdam, he studied and became “ordained” before World War II under the tutelage of another rabbi, escaped Europe before the war, and made it to America.  The war, and the Jewish Holocaust, took away his belief in God, but not his knowledge and devotion to study.  He was an autodidact, reading and writing in at least seven languages, including ancient Hebrew, Aramaic, Greek, as well as modern Dutch, English, German and French. He filled his time at home with biblical study.  His work life in America involved the diamond trade. I don’t remember how he ended up in Seattle, but after age 50 he took advantage of his location and became an avid downhill snow skier.

My bar mitzvah tutelage with him has a fascinating backstory.  When my dad became the director of the Kline Galland Home for the Aged in Seattle – the first professional social worker to head that Jewish senior housing facility – he sought a rabbi to lead shabbat services.  There were no orthodox rabbis who were willing to travel by car on shabbat to meet that need. But Dr. Lagaweir was an exception. He no longer believed in God, but he did believe in service to others.  When it was time to find a tutor for his son, my dad prevailed upon Arthur Lagaweir to take on that task and based on their mutually respectful relationship, he agreed.

Visiting Dr. Lagaweir in his study during those six months of preparation was a visual and odiferous sensation.  The room was piled floor to ceiling with books, and he always was smoking a cigar. I felt a kind of awe and privilege to be with someone who was both learned and exuded a kind of holiness.

The bar mitzvah itself is a topic worthy of another blog entry all its own. It was the last gathering of a set of friends and relatives from both of America’s West and East coasts before so many passed away; an event that my irreligious grandpa found himself crying deeply at, surprised by his own connection to his Jewish soul; and a time where I first put my foot down on a major issue:  I’d only agree to do the whole megillah if there could be both potato AND macaroni salad available.

But I digress.  Back to the tale of rabbis and “Fiddler.”

There is a wedding scene in the play where the rabbi marries Motel and Tzeitel to the tune of Sunrise, Sunset. The script has no words for the rabbi, but the visual is that he is speaking. 

Four years after my bar mitzvah, I returned to Dr. Lagaweir’s office – by then he had given up smoking – to ask for the blessing prayer for marriage. I wanted to mumble it during my performance as a paean to authenticity. His reply to my request was unexpected and wonderful: he turned me down flat. 

“If you say that prayer during the play to those two students, they will in fact be married.  I cannot teach it to you under those circumstances.”

Over my nearly 70 years on the planet, I have encountered many rabbis.  Each, of course, with their personal and professional distinctiveness, and each with differing relationships to me. All leaving a deeper mark on my life than the average Joe or Jill, for the rabbinic calling comes with a certain intensity and magnetism.

As a poor college student, I lived a half-mile from the University of Washington Chabad House. In search of a filling meal, I visited for a free erev shabbat dinner accompanied by a mandatory service.  At my first such visit, a young rabbi came up to me before dinner, and asked me to lead a prayer.  “But rabbi, I don’t know Hebrew,” I protested.

“It’s ok,” he replied with a grin, “God understands English.”

Several years later, a friend from my teenage Jewish basketball team, who had become a devout Lubavitcher Jew, invited me to join him for a shabbat dinner at that same rabbi’s home.  I went and had a great time, taking in the richly engaging and comforting sights, sounds and smells of a life very different from my own. The next day, I went on a first date with Karen, who would become my first wife, and told her the story of the previous day’s Jewish adventure.  As for that very same rabbi?  Well, he became ensnarled in an international criminal operation. The courts found him both innocent and naïve to the smuggling operation.  He went on to a fine rabbinic career.

Never being an adult member of any congregation, when Karen and I decided to get married, about a year after my Lubavitcher dinner, we found a rabbi ordained in the Reform Judaism movement, Vicky Hollander, as a compatible guide to a Jewish marriage ceremony. After more than 3000 years of textual Jewish continuity, Rabbi Vicky was one of the religion’s first female rabbis. She was kind, warm, knowledgable, accessible and non-intimidating and led us through our preparations and the ceremony itself. And in retrospect, she must have been an incredibly courageous and self-actualizing person to have taken the rabbinic plunge as one of the “firsts.”

Several years later, when we moved to Olympia, I heard from a friend that of all things, Rabbi Vicky was the visiting rabbi at Temple Beth Hatfiloh.  At that time, TBH was an unaffiliated, historic synagogue located in downtown Olympia. There were perhaps a total of only 60 households. We went to a shabbat service led by Rabbi Vicky and instantly found a welcoming community of friendly people with whom we connected.  One of the men had actually dated Karen’s sister in Brooklyn! We stuck around and became members of TBH, even though Rabbi Vicky’s tenure was short.

TBH’s membership started growing dramatically, and lay leadership decided to recruit a rabbi to work slightly more than half time. As part of that search, different members, including us, hosted candidates.  We hosted Rabbi Marna Sapsowitz, trained in Mordechai Kaplan’s Reconstructionist movement, who would go on become TBH’s first fulltime rabbi. With Rabbi Marna at the helm, and local Jewish demographics ascendent, our temple’s membership more than doubled in size in the next five years. It was bursting with energy, and, of course, not a small amount of contention and controversy.

Rabbi Marna found herself at the center of some of that contention.  A portion of our membership were raised and desired to continue to practice in a more conservative/traditional Judaism. Those folks clashed with the more liberal/progressive orientation of not only our rabbi, but the majority of our congregation.  TBH membership made a collective decision to align with the Jewish Reconstructionist movement, where Rabbi Marna had been ordained.  This resulted in both a schism, with the more ritualistically traditional members creating another shul aligned with the Conservative branch of Judaism, and soon thereafter a decision by Rabbi Marna to leave her pulpit role at TBH.

I was a supporter of Rabbi Marna’s leadership during that difficult time.  After she left TBH and continued to live in Olympia, we became not just Rabbi and congregant, but friends.  And that relationship has continued for over 20 years.

Soon after Rabbi Marna and TBH separated, I became part of the Rabbi Search Committee.  I was the lead contact with the Reconstructionist Rabbinical College in securing potential candidates.  We identified three or four final year students who would come out, conduct a shabbat service as part of an “interview” process, and from that, we would make a selection.

I remember my principal college contact at the time recommending that we seriously consider Seth Goldstein.  He wasn’t initially our first choice on paper, but I was advised “to really give this guy a shot.  I think he’d be a good fit for you out there.”

Rabbi Seth was invited to lead us during the High Holy Day services that coming fall, and he was an instant “hit.”  We indeed did hire him after that, and he is now in his 22nd (I think that’s right) year at TBH.

Over the many years of Rabbi Seth’s tenure, the temple has doubled again in size.    Eloquent, energetic, and humorous, he has also proven himself an exceptional temple leader, adept both as an inspiring orator, and compassionate pastor.  I have gotten to observe him take on many of the roles that rabbis play in the life of a local Jewish community and also have been aware of his interactions in the broader national/international Reconstructionism movement and his functioning as a community leader within the wider non-Jewish world around us.

But it has been in the last year, as President of TBH, that my interactions with Rabbi Seth have taken on a new and distinctly different tone and purpose.  As a rabbi who for 20 plus years is required to adjust to a new president every 1 – 3 years, it must be an enormous challenge to maintain a professional relationship with very different kinds of people with very different goals and styles of communication and leadership.  And that is what the rabbinic/lay leadership relationship is, a professional relationship.

It would, of course, be inappropriate in this public blog, to detail the specifics of our communications and the tasks we work on for TBH. But for me, there is constantly much learning, not only about the issues we face together, but the distinctive approach to the role of rabbi that Rabbi Seth has defined for himself, and indeed the nature of the role that the Reconstructionist Movement has defined which he uses as a guide.

In the history of the Jewish people, there have been many roles that rabbis have played. After the destruction of the temple more than 2000 years ago, and the banishment to Babylon, ritual animal sacrifice was mostly abandoned in favor of adherence to a range of ritual procedures from the Torah.  Correct interpretation of the Torah became essential, and with that, the Talmudic approach to learning and decision-making became ascendant.  

That approach required rabbis to be authoritative about ritual procedure, with a magnificent catch.  Rabbinic disagreements were exposed, explained, and honored through the act of documentation.  Thus, the two main extant Talmudic documents – the Babylonian and Jerusalem Talmuds – contain a series of arguments between different rabbis about the correct interpretation of various Torah passages.  These disagreements are passionately stated. But always in the form of logic, not ad homonym attacks.  And it is in the reading of these Talmudic disagreements, that Jews have studied their laws for hundreds upon hundreds of years.

For some modern Jewish communities, the decisions of their rabbi are viewed as supreme, as absolute. Followers of the aforementioned Lubavitcher movement, led for decades by Rabbi Menachem Mendel Schneerson, revered his stature as more than just a sage, but in many ways a direct connection to God.  Whereas the role of the rabbi in more liberal Jewish groups, including Conservative, Reform, and Reconstructionist synagogues, has been seen more as a knowledgeable guide to Jewish tradition and practice, than the final arbiter of faith.

At our synagogue, Rabbi Seth is given “freedom of the pulpit.” He has the right to say what he believes, and express himself as he chooses in all his official temple communications, both orally and in writing. He is there as an advisor and a consultant to all his congregants.  But he also must take care not to press himself upon those aspects of community decision making that are the domain of lay leadership.  His is a spiritual position, yes. It is a guide to ritual practice, yes.  And it is very much a political position, which requires staying in touch with the diversity of opinions and orientations of his constituents and finding ways to meet their varying needs.

Throughout my life, rabbis have played important parts of my growth and learning. I feel truly blessed to have been able to interact with them in all their diversity and all the different relationship roles we have had with each other.  And yes… there have been no czars among them.

On Lying

I’ve been sorting out miscellanea from my files and came across something I had written nearly 32 years ago. Now that my own son has a son of his own, its topic has renewed resonance. And its prime object remains erect, intact and proudly displayed in our kitchen.

Accordingly, here is a writing from a 30-something dad:

November 13, 1993

ON LYING

The genesis of my story resides in the underbelly of that noble parenting support system ‑ the practiced, polite lie.  The story starts more than 20 years ago….

How was it, I thought to myself, that my mother of 14 years could be so untrustworthy when it came to frank analysis of any product I had a hand in producing?  She obviously had the facility for critical thinking.  This she ably and frequently demonstrated when it came to just about any woman on TV ‑ she’s so fat… she’s emaciated… that make‑up is atrocious… ‑ or most items political, cultural or natural.  Yet with her son, with me, all that vocally emerged was praise.

“You’re doing very well, Danny”, she would say.  I would never know, however, her true feelings.

A devious notion had been building in me for years.   It was bound to spark an incident.  What if I was to fool her?  What if I was to pretend that something I created was not mine, ask her opinion about it and get some real truth for once?!

I would wait and plot and pick my opportunity with wicked precision.

Then, my opportunity arose.  At an art class in Junior High, I created a 10‑ inch tall, circular vase, approximately 3‑inches wide and uniform in diameter.  It had a turquoise glaze and several rope‑like appendages wrapped around and up and down its surface.  It also had two large protuberances on opposite sides from each other, with holes in their middle, giving the impression of caved‑in sideways volcanoes with their central core cut out.  It was not a pretty sight.

I must say, in all candor, that I had a certain pride in that creation.  It was artsy and modern, in a deconstructionist kind of way, and while I knew it was “simply horrible,” I nonetheless felt it to be rather cleverly horrible and quite the best horrible thing I had ever made.

Then it hit me.

I’ll bring this back to Mom ‑ who liked everything I did ‑ and see if she could lie her way through this one.  Conspiring with Dad, we would notify Mom that we just bought the vase from Panaca, a local and marginally trendy arts gallery.  We would ask her for her honest opinion of the piece.  Then we’d sit back and watch the fun begin.

“It’s a monstrosity,” she proclaimed after hearing our spiel and viewing the creation.

I was gleeful.  “Aha, I’ve got her now,” I thought, and proceeded to tell her that the “monstrosity” was not from Panaca at all but by the hand of her darling son.

The Tour de France never saw such backpedaling.

“But it really is quite an interesting monstrosity, dear,” my flustered mother averred.  “I mean, it is (throat clearing commenced) really quite interesting.”

But, of course, the damage was done.  The incident would ring forever in my mind as the moment of splendid victory.  It would be a victory of the truth over the lie; the honest reaction over the coy dodge; the teenager over the mother.  It would be a moment to relish and remember.

Now when my son brings me his latest creation from kindergarten, I eye the flower that looks like a dog and the dog that looks like a flower, stare him right in his glowing eyes and declare, “That’s really great, Zac.  I’m proud of you.”

That’ll show Mom.

The monstrosity lives!

Just a Small Bit

Yes, I know. I haven’t added a new blog entry for awhile. Not just busy-ness, but finding myself pre-occupied with things that would likely be of little interest to readers.

But odd juxtapositions are always in order around these parts, and I’ve got a sweet little one here.

As I was reading the below column by David Brooks (yeah, you probably need a NYT subscription to see it), he made reference to a British urban planner named Sir Peter Hall.

The name threw me back to the fall of 1972 and my family’s time in London. It was as a 17-year-old that I first was gobsmacked by the telly show “Monty Python.” Just loved it. I made audio tapes of the show and when I got back to the states, played them for my friends. Monty Python didn’t come to US public television until 1974.

There was one skit where John Cleese was talking with a classically trained stuffed-shirt  British actor. The actor was pompously and boastfully declaring the number of words he had to memorize with different Shakespearean plays. And then said: 

“Now I don’t want you to get the idea that it is just the number of words, getting them in the right order is just as important – Sir Peter Hall used to say to me ‘Alan, here’s all the words now all we have to do is get them in the right order’

Move forward to 1980. I was in my second year of a graduate program in City and Regional Planning at UC Berkeley. We had Professor Peter Hall visiting as a guest lecturer at our school. My interactions with Prof. Hall were pretty prosaic, but I did tell him about the Monty Python line and we got a good laugh out of that.

I knew at the time that he was a pretty renowned professor, but he came across as accessible and friendly.  I now thought how cool that David Brooks is quoting him, years after he passed away.  Then I looked him up on Wikipedia, and… wow! What an accomplished life!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Hall_(urbanist)

Turns out that my old professor did indeed earn the title “Sir” for his teachings. And it only took me 371 words to share it here.

PS: Regarding Brooks’ article…. Non-reciprocal tariffs (when we do to other nations what they do not do to us) generally are horrible foreign policy and crazy economic policy as well. They can be seen as a kind of non-physical means of declaring war, and should require, in my opinion, Congressional approval to enact.

Contradictions of the Oaxacan Street: A Cacophony of Celebration, A Ubiquity of Unwanted Commerce

On warm Oaxacan winter evenings, when its streets and plazas are alit with vibrant dancing, music competitively blaring from bars and cantinas, street urchins hawking their wares, singers lilting in Spanish and English classical and modern songs,  musicians bowing their violins, strumming and picking their guitars, and squeezing their accordions, parades of wedding celebrants rolling down the streets dressed in modern and ancient formalwear, lunatic clowns mesmerizing children into ecstatic frenzied laughter, jugglers and daredevils twirling and spinning with fires and knives… well, it all smacks the foreign observer like a cacophony of celebration. Shared… public… joyfulness.

Oaxaca city’s central historical district is a tourist mecca.  In every direction, sights of extraordinary architectural magnificence – 500 years of Catholic majesty preeminent and powerful. In every direction food and drink and artisans’ creations. And people. Of all ages. Mixing.

The warmness of the place is key. Great, pleasant weather. An unmistakable and genuine sense of human friendliness.  People who say good morning – buenos dias – comfortably to strangers. Good evening and good afternoon as well.

The streets and plazas are also filled with security personnel.  Federal, state and municipal police.  Well-armed.  But in place of concern and fear at the presence of these cops, as a tall white old man tourist, I very much feel that they are all there for me and my ilk. The reality of this tourist mecca is that it will thrive as long as folks like me feel safe.  And the presence of the cops provides that measure of security.

So, on one hand, the Oaxacan street is a place of energetic, even exuberant, celebration of public life. Of being together. Sure, there are some English-speaking street strollers. But for the most part, the sounds of the public spaces are fully Mexican. And I love the sing-song music of Mexican Spanish.

And yet, I wouldn’t be me, without also feeling deeply a dark side to all this cornucopia of human interaction.  Never one to enjoy the buying and selling of things, I begin to recognize a kind of index of commercial misery. A misery-commercial hierarchy so to speak.

At its base, its lowest rung, are the sorrow-filled faces and crumpled bodies of the financial beggars. These are the old, very old, and decrepit asking for your pity and a few of your pesos. They have little movement, lack energy, and lack hope really. Their effectiveness is based on exploring the passersby’s’ sense of guilt.  But no matter how much one gives, sadness remains. Guilt remains.

Some want us Gringos gone.

But there are second opinions.

A step up the misery ladder are the strolling merchants of worthless trinkets. They walk toward you, displaying with rapid-fire words and outstretched arms their wares. The same tiny bracelets, wooden animal forms, plastic jewelry that can be found in every third shop, and every second meandering street vendor you cross on these warm, crowded passageways.  Who buys these items? How can the vendors make a living?  How can they spend day after day, evening after evening, reaching out to tourists with no hope of changing their financial existence, but to only see a future of growing older and doing the same thing.

Next up are the retailers, clerking the temporary street cubicles filled with themed items.  Some of these cubicles have stuff of some value. Nicknacks to take home from Oaxaca. Simple T-shirts or shawls.  Mostly, there are things for sale that are available ubiquitously.

Street musicians are up the ladder still.  Distributing themselves in such a way that they do not interfere with each other… much.  They offer creativity in exchange for your pesos.  At times, these musicians demonstrate great talent. Often, however, they appeal to the schmaltz in their audience.  

Next step up are the street vendors selling reasonable quality merchandise. For the most part, this requires you and the merchant to negotiate; to perform a tug of war. But why demean someone – someone with creative skills – to reduce the value of their labor?

And on top of the misery-commerce index are the fancy shops.  The beautifully designed, pure wool or pure cotton or pure natural colored luxury items, sold to wealthy people when there is poverty all around you. With even these items of much less cost than would be found in the States, who is benefiting from such commercial exchanges?

How do I respond to these pleadings? From the beggars… something comes over me and from time to time, I empty my pockets of change.  Mostly I do not.  Of the mobile vendors?  I do not buy anything. What would be the point? The product would only bring me memories of sorrow. And my purchase action from the vendor?  What value would there be for him or her if any one or two or four people buy something? It would only sustain a bare-survival existence, sitting exhausted on the street with marginal merchandise.

But yet and yet and yet again, that misery-commercial analogy mostly fails the test of gestalt. For overall I did not see misery (other than my own self-imposed judgments). Overall, I saw happiness.  Even the street urchins, of any age, seemed relaxed and even energetic. Satisfied with their lots. There were plenty of smiles from the sellers, and no apparent anger at or jealousy of the tourists.

The extraordinary craft of the weaver artists.

On this Oaxacan trip, we also booked a number of tours that took us away from our city neighborhood.  We visited waterfalls and pools.  Took architectural and historical tours.  Lingered in fun and amazing museums. Prayed in over-the-top baroque churches. Traveled the countryside to artisan villages and bought clay bowls and wooden painted figurines.  We ate tacos and drank mezcal and pulque at modest venues where we were the only tourists. We took cooking classes and shopped the markets for our meals. We were hosted by a Oaxacan family, whose father was a young man we stayed with the last time we were in Oaxaca 24 years ago. And the music and smells and tastes and light and interactions with people and more people left me with a distinct conclusion to all those varied experiences.  And it is this: For its residents, Oaxacan life is rich with all that makes life rich.

My moment with Jimmy

Today’s news of the passing of former president Jimmy Carter, brings me back to a one-on-one moment I had with him more than 50 years ago.

In the Summer of 1974, I worked as a doorman at the Music Box Theatre in downtown Seattle. (The movie “Chinatown” played at that movie house just about the entire five months of my employment.  Great movie… but I digress!)

That employment marked the interregnum between my academic failure at Western Washington State College and later relative success at Bellevue Community College.  But academic failure or not, I was pretty interested in politics at the time; volunteering for Senator Warren Magneson’s re-election campaign and keeping up on state and national political issues.

The National Governor’s Conference was taking place that August at the Olympic Hotel, located less than 4 blocks from the movie theater.  So, I decided to walk over before my theater shift to see what I could see at the hotel.

I distinctly remember entering a grand ballroom.  On my right, walking down a flight of stairs, Senator Ted Kennedy was drawing a huge phalanx of reporters and flashing cameras.  On the other side of the room, no one was paying particular attention to Georgia Governor Jimmy Carter, who was talking with an individual man. 

At the time, Carter had been known in liberal Democratic party circles as someone who was trying to move “The New South” in a direction of racial justice.  But he was not otherwise known broadly in the country.

I was excited by the opportunity to actually talk with Governor Carter, so I waited a few feet away until he finished talking with the other gentleman. Then he turned to me:

Me: Governor Carter, I just want you to know that I am so impressed with your call for racial justice in the south.  Would you consider running for President?

Carter: Well, that is so generous of you to say. May I ask your name?

Me: It is Dan, Governor Carter.

Carter: Dan, as you know, there have been extraordinary changes in the south in recent years.  I’m so proud to be part of those changes.

Me: I think you are the kind of leader we need now. Someone who is a moral force for good.

Carter: Thank you for those kind words.  You know, if you are ever in Atlanta, I hope that you come by the Governor’s Mansion. I’d love to see you and show you around.

Me.  It would be an honor for me. Thank you, sir.

Governor Carter then shook my hand, and looked directly into my eyes.  I fell in love with him in that instant. That is not an exaggeration. I found him to be the most sincere, charismatic, genuine person I had ever met.  His invitation to the governor’s mansion was, objectively, ridiculous.  But I believed every word of it. I believed in him.

Later that evening, the news reported that he was the only gubernatorial attendee to attend a rally in downtown Seattle on behalf of Soviet Jewry.   By December 1974, he was the first major party candidate to announce for the 1976 Presidential run.  I have no doubt he had already made that decision by the time a teenager from Washington State suggested that candidacy four months previously.   

Can photos and video capture the experience of joy? A non-narrative Alden-centered blog entry

I haven’t figured out a way to share my videos with everyone. So the video links below can be brought up by me, but not seen by others ( as yet). But the photos are sharable… and that’s what I’m doing here from our trip to Berkeley in November and December 2024.

On the left side is Zac, Vicky and Alden’s house. On the right is the neighbor’s Airbnb that we rented for 6 weeks.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM1sKjehs0MCbuLE1–n8BsRERaqpbK_3Dfh0ME

Who is that mousey in the window?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/G4ma7iDGrh1FqnQa7

Grand-mere providing nourishment.

Alden’s first Farber legacy visit to Lombard Street in SF: “The Crookedest Street in the World.

Street view

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM6Q8ZTb-kMlXyipgx2DhqWvpY68-Dx_8z6vPsj

The above is a video of what it is like to take Alden on a stroll. The below video is his joy to be in his circular jumping support thingamagig.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMWvZMVYR38P1a-42Ml3px-T4du5dnFaLc-fXC5

At Fisherman’s Wharf with Mama.

At Fisherman’s Wharf with Father.

The world’s most expensive lemonade can be the source of all sorts of happiness.

Considering the world’s problems with cousins Shirley and Dan in San Jose.

Problems solved!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xSySKK9uv7JcujAL9

Alden learning how to mimic sounds. “Ah uh!”

At weekly reading and play time at the Albany Library. Photo above, video below.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dyKJ9CjYi8LkMt5U9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GRTLyE6zSbrMoqS37

First bite of meat.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jzvCqJNupA5AWtoU6

Climbing Mount Saba

Grand-mere is poised to take off from the top of the concrete slide at Cordornices Park. And away we go!

Apparently, Berkeley’s Cat Ladies’ support was not enough to swing the national election.

Throughout Berkeley, these Totland Playgrounds were available year round. The advantage of family-centered city planning and a fantastic year-round climate.

Zac and Vicky had a professional photographer take the upper two pictures.

In summary: such joy.

Report from Berkeley: An Alden Update

A few days ago, I started getting a cough, tiredness and some aches and pains.  They have not left me. So, after some prodding by Jean and Zac, I called up the Kaiser Advice Nurse service today to get their recommendation for over-the-counter cough medicine.

After the nurse went through the usual questions, I got that pharmaceutical recommendation.  I also asked her what she would suggest I do to protect my 8-and-a-half-month grandson from my infection.

“Most of the day I just sit down on the floor and play with him,” I start. “And his cheeks are basically irresistible. Do I really need to stay away from kissing them?”

Her response was that I should probably wear a mask. “But I totally understand,” she said with both sympathy and a healthy dose of fellow traveler. “There is nothing better in the world than playing with your grandchildren.  I have two of my own.  It makes me perfectly happy.”

And of course, she is right. Jean and I are finishing up our first month of caring for our gorgeous, fun, adorable grandson, Alden Antolept Sung Farber. Our set up is sweet.  Alden, and his parents Zac and Vicky, live literally next door.  We are renting an Airbnb house adjacent to theirs for 6 weeks. We take care of him Monday through Wednesday from 8 to 5:15, and then other times when the parents could use a break or when Daniel and Jean just miss the little fella and have to get our hugs in.  Zac and Vicky get to work full time, trading off Thursdays and Fridays between them, and we get to take side trips and other adventures with friends and family on  our “days off.”

We give those friends and family a choice.  Do you want to hang with us and Alden… then come Monday through Wednesday.  Do you want us to visit with you elsewhere? The other days of the week are available.

Pictures? You want pictures?  Of course I’m going to give you pictures. But the shots don’t capture the most powerful realities.  When Alden starts “climbing Saba (my chosen Aramaic name for Grandfather)”, he and I have staring contests with each other.  Then he starts sucking on an Alden-approved shirt zipper of mine with a red string end, and… and… I am blissed out with complete joy.

The term “innocence” doesn’t quite capture what is so special about his age. He has no guile.  He has no hidden agenda. When he is hungry, he wants to eat. He chugs down formula until he is sated.  He either likes or doesn’t like new foods (sweet potato is a big hit.) When his diaper is poopy, he wants it cleaned.  When he is tired, he gets squirrely and needs a nap.  When you make goofy faces at him, he likes to laugh. And he is relentlessly curious about everything in his world. When in a stroller, his eyes are riveted on the plants and animals and clouds and the splendors of creation that constantly evolve as we roll on.

And when we haven’t seen each other for awhile and then he sees my face and a smile breaks out.., well, there isn’t anything better. 

OK… enough of that narrative… let’s get to the real treats:

A trip to San Francisco included a visit to a craft market, lunch at the Buena Vista Restaurant with world class Irish coffee, touring the Asian Art Museum, and vistas from Fisherman’s Terminal and Fort Mason.

According to Zac, the higher up you raise him the happier he is. Here’s positive evidence.

At the Asian Art Museum where there was an exhibit on the Korean “New Wave.” They gave folks the option for a silly photo. Here are three generations of Farbers.

Babies like being boxed in!

Nothing better than being a source of nourishment.

Tot learning and play time at the Albany Library. Books to read, songs to sing, and toys to grab and chew, every Tuesday at noon.

Seriously… those cheeks are irresistable.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOkvEN4BF2JDr9PKMdNKsO5EGQnhYDzM3eY3NDw

https://cvws.icloud-content.com/S/AYkvmykZ5T7Mz0ne0GVijBdp3DHY/VID_20241120_112221755.mp4?o=ArQ5iwmOBbD_Mt-sqgqoV0ovTaOkkWSd8jaMLSl4fVhe&v=1&z=https%3A%2F%2Fp156-content.icloud.com%3A443&x=1&a=CAogU7Gq06wFqvWNCm2g1QwIlZUW16nvxdnxOhgR-V2BfiUSZRCOr-DfvDIYjsbz5LwyIgEAUgRp3DHYaiVhf1K8llPE3dcbxj_mbQsP95M6CBrFNUlDNxLc6slqw69Cgdo2ciU3cQv3Wcg9YMWTHxQbeank7640WmyG9F4jEd0jBiZsO2GbEAWG&e=1734304654&r=f35c6f53-91f4-43f9-a7bb-10b9612ea3e2-1&s=om7efCN90A_fQub7Kz1SsPkbFhA&chrome_unique=634128172

Not sure you all can see this video link. Hope you can.